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Hi, I know i'm not the first one having a problem about 2ax sounding "muddy" or "muffled" but i'm wondering what would be the best option about replacing the original tweeters? So far I have already changed the caps, refoamed the woofers and changed the pots, thanks jkent. I also tested the tweeters connecting one tweeter straight to the amp and there was sound but it was really quiet. The tweeter rebuild service is in USA and also Vintage Ar replacement tweeters are there and i'm living in Finland so I think it would be too expensive with all the shipping costs and taxes. How about that HiVi Q1R Dome tweeter, some people have used it I think? It would be at least a lot cheaper option, does it need any changes to the frame or any changes to the crossover? Heres couple of photos:

I'm a new member and have just recently discovered Snell speakers. I've picked up a set of Type E III and Type Ci speakers recently and am learning about those models and Snell in general. As is obvious, both sets of these speakers are 30+ years old, and debatably might benefit from some maintenance. I'll say up front that both sets seem to play fine, and have both had their woofer foam surrounds replaced by previous owners, and I understand the potential concerns some might raise there regarding replacing the surrounds versus whole driver replacement from AtomicHiFi. And I'd be interested in refreshing any electrolytic capacitors in the crossovers, and again I've read a lot about varying opinions on that topic too. That being said, feel free to offer any experience or advice on those topics. One additional thing I'm curious about though are the tweeters. Again, by ear all the tweeters seem to be working fine, so maybe the short answer is "if it ain't broke, don't fix it" 😉 And I'm generally fully supportive of that position as I don't need to invent new things to do, or break what isn't. But with age some say that ferrofluid in tweeters dries out and gets sticky, and to maintain/recapture the original performance the ferrofluid should be replaced, or the tweeter entirely replaced. There are kits to refresh the ferrofluid, and new correct tweeters are available for relatively low cost. So what are others' thoughts on the need to refresh ferrofluid in tweeters of this age, and if anyone has experienced doing so? Thanks in advance!

Dear Friends, I've been doing a lot of research about a pair of speakers I got from mom, a pair of Rectilinear Research XIb. While doing so I stumbled upon Mr. Kent Xla restoration project on this forum's section and I thought it would be useful to ask about my speakers as well. While inspecting my set, after removing the front grille I realized that the tweeters were replaced with a pair of Philips AD 0160 T8 Mylar dome super tweeters. I was shocked to say the least. My purpose here is to find a proper replacement for these speakers and restore them to the original factory settings. I still have the original documents of the speakers, Warranty cards from Rectilinear and product guide, but I couldn't find the exact part number and manufacturer of the tweeters. However, I was able to recover information about the technical specs of the drivers as follows: Original replacement part name: T-II (used only on XIa and XIb) 3.5" paper cone tweeter 8 Ohm impedance ferrite driver Large 0,5625 inches voice coil Approx. weight 0.5 Kg Range from 2000 Hz to 20,000 Hz Crossover Filter Frequency: 2000 Hz Total flux density: 11,000 gauss or better What I cannot be sure about is if it's supposed do be made by Peerless, and if its power absorption should be 40W or 50W. Would you mind me to ask you, from your experience, what could be the best replacement for the tweeters or point me towards a good place to look for it? I think I found something that matches the right characteristics, but I can't be sure about that or how do they sound compared to the originals, that would be the Goldwood GT-25, 3.5" paper cone tweeter ( https://www.goldwood.com/goldwood-sound-gt-25-black-3-5-kapton-tweeter-80-watt-8ohm-replacement-tweeter/ ). Of course my first pick would be to find the original tweeters, leaving the Goldwood options only as last resource. Another technical question: The XIb is supposed to be a bass reflex design, as you can see there is still the original wool material inside the bass conduct, but I am not sure that is the right placement, should it be pushed far back in the cabinet to allow a better air flow? Really hope you could help with this project, all the bests! Cheers, Jacob

I looked at a pair of all original AR9’s for sale. Of course they need refoaming but the main concern is NO SOUND from either high tweeter. (meaning the high tweeter on each speaker is not sounding) The speakers have had 2 mature owners and reportedly have not been abused (and show no signs of it). Is this more likely to be the tweeter itself or the attenuation switch? The switches for the low mids and the mid range dome function properly. This would not be a result of missing jumpers on the back panel speaker wire connections could it. (the jumpers were in place but possibly may not have been making contact- but I’m thinking since the low mid and the mid dome were working that all circuits were getting a signal) I was unable to do any diagnostics at the sellers house and an agreed price could not be settled on so I passed on them. Looks like used tweeters run about 100.00 each give or take. Did not find any used attenuation switches for sale. I would rate cabinet (1 chip) and grill (some light pilling) condition a 7 or 8 out of 10. Opinions on likely culprit? What is a fair price to pay for these in this state? Thanks!