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Everything posted by JKent

  1. A tiny piece of cloth that is thin and light. Maybe T-shirt or sheet, if a little blob of glue isn't enough.
  2. Been there done that 🤨 I would suggest a very small patch of light thin cloth applied to the back of the cloth surround using Roy's surround sealant. Then apply a light coating of the sealant to both surrounds. It's available on ebay from seller Vintage-AR. If you don't want to do that, a very small glob of some kind of glue, as Rick suggested, may do. Put it on the back. Something like Goop or Shoe Goo or E6000 would work. Maybe rubber cement. I'm not sure about white glue. It's water based and "may" harden and come loose with all that flexing. Or it may work. Kent
  3. Oh. Those pictures are new. Obviously not cloth surrounds. btw, that old wax capacitor should be replaced.
  4. Welcome Jose The early 2ax woofer was the cast aluminum frame/cloth surround type. The sealant on the cloth surround may have become dry and as a result the surrounds may be porous. If they are, the speaker is no longer air-tight and the bass response will suffer. Try this: Put your thumb and 2 fingers around the dust cap, like a tripod, and push the woofer cone in. Let go and the cone should return slowly. If it pops right back ut, you have a leak and it may be the surrounds. Are you in this country? There is only one sealant that is right for these surrounds. It's made by Classic Speaker Pages member RoyC and sold by ebay seller Vintage-AR. Try the test and let us know what happens. Kent
  5. DUH. Totally forgot the woofers were in parallel 😕
  6. hey b_sdaddy I was glad ChrisM found your threads, just wish we'd known about them sooner. Very interesting speakers as it turns out. A couple of thoughts: The 0.33uF is probably a "bypass cap." Some audiophiles think that putting a small value cap, often of higher voltage, in parallel with the main cap "improves" the sound. I'm skeptical. In the ones I worked on the arrangement was sort of the opposite of yours. The big cap was a yellow mylar and the small one was metallic green. Maybe PIO as Chris suggests. I don't think either one was marked in my case but I had to replace one pair because of a broken lead and I measured the big cap at 6.2uF, small one at 0.33 so I replaced them with 1.5 + 1.5 + 0.33. Are you sure these are 4 ohm nominal? The woofers in mine were totally shot and had no markings. DCR readings were all over the map IIRC. But the tweeters were Audax HD13D34H, which are 8 ohm. I think your tweets are SEAS though. That 6moons article is interesting but not 100% accurate. It says the woofers are 6" Peerless and they are really 5". And as Chris noted they sort of "look" British. Keep us posted. Kent
  7. You da man Chris. You're the only one who showed any interest in these and now you've uncovered more info! Thanks. Followed links in the AK thread and found this info. They are The European Holophone Systems Soprano loudspeakers from the early '70s, made in Belgium. Here's a little more: https://6moons.com/industryfeatures/gotaway1/gotaway.html The article incorrectly identifies the woofers as 6" Peerless. Maybe 5" Peerless? Kent
  8. Advice from Aadams is all good. 3+3, 4+2, or the 6.2 is really close enough. If it were me, 6uF caps are so cheap that even if the 6uF is a Sprague I'd replace it. You can get all the values from erseaudio.com and their prices are low. Kent
  9. My plan, had it worked out, was to build a pair of AR-3a Limiteds https://community.classicspeakerpages.net/topic/11524-what-version-do-i-have/?tab=comments#comment-129226 You might want to consider that. If I ever find good cabinets that's still the plan.
  10. Gene, Those 11 cabinets look nice! I'm going to pass on the 3a cabs. The seller won't end the auction and sell as a pair, and they're kinda beat. Will have to keep watching.
  11. I was considering these. I have bought from the seller before and he's about a 45 minute drive. But I see there's bidding started on one. Maybe if they were offered as a pair. I did send him an inquiry and am waiting to hear back. I just acquired a pair of AR-11Bs but one cabinet is beyond repair. Thought I could build a pair of 3a's. We'll see.....
  12. PE sells 2 versions: Their house brand, which is OK and the Mellotone which costs more but lARrybody told me it's much nicer. I have only used the cheaper stuff myself but if I were doing really good speakers I'd spring for the Mellotone. Very nice write-up AR55. I would suggest this as an alternative to Goop (which can be kind of messy): https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00178MNFO/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1 I used Fabri-Tac and 1/4" staples on the nice frames Larry made for my AR-11 project. Kent
  13. JKent

    AR 17s

    Sorry. Internet slang. OTOH = On the other hand. ADD was what AR called that series of speakers. Dunno what it means. Attention Deficit Disorder? I have never re-coned a speaker, so you're ahead of me but several others here have. By shim the VC (voice coil) what I meant was this: Cut off the dust cap and install thin celluloid shims, supplied by the seller of the foam or cone kit, all around the voice coil to maintain a consistant gap while the glue sets. Afterward, install a new dust cap. I'm sure there are YouTube videos and will search when I get a chance. I'll answer your PM through PM. Kent
  14. JKent

    AR 17s

    Electrolytics are fine. Originally the speakers had electrolytics and some. notably Ken Kantor (of AR, NHT) recommend them. Electrolytics are inexpensive but they have a finite lifespan (20, 30 years. Sometimes more). Film caps cost more but last virtually forever. For capacitors you should use the stated capacitance (mfd or uF or microfarads) +/- 10% although back in the day the accepted tolerance was -25% / + 75%!!! Voltage rating can be equal to the originals or higher. It's fine to replace a 50v speaker cap with a 600v one.
  15. JKent

    AR 17s

    Use film. Film caps will be 100 to 250v or more.
  16. JKent

    AR 58s

    OK. So yes, the tweeter does work when swapped? If so it's good news. Larry said there are no switches in the 58S so the culprit is either a totally shot capacitor or, more likely, an open connection somewhere. Here's the xo drawing Larry provided, cropped and darkened. Hope it helps. Try tracing all the wires to the High Range starting at the bottom of the drawing. Also look at the schematic. The only cap in the tweeter circuit is the 4uF so maybe start by replacing that one and see if you get sound. Kent
  17. JKent

    AR 17s

    Hey dna That 13-year-old post of mine brought back memories. I did give those speakers to a friend and he's still enjoying them. You don't need a schematic. Just look at your crossover and see what caps are there. Replace those. And as AR55 pointed out, if you bought them in 1978 they are ADD series, like the ones I worked on. Newer "AR17" speakers are not real ARs. Do a search and you'll see some black ported things that may or may not be ok but they're not acoustic suspension speakers. I suspect that's what the crossover on ebay is. btw, that crossover has 2 yellow film capacitors and they should not be replaced. The black 6uF cap with red ends OTOH should most definitely be replaced. Regarding the woofers, do you really mean re-coned or just re-foamed. I've never tackled a re-cone job but re-foaming is a simple task. If yours buzzes my guess is you did not shim the voice coil. Ask any questions here and please post pictures of any problem areas. Kent
  18. I now have AR-11 logos. Solid brass, adhesive backed. These are laser engraved but they feel smooth on top--they are not deeply engraved and filled like the originals. Very nice though. $11/pair for CSP members.
  19. Yeah, that’s Larry’s work. Looks good. btw, I now have reproduction brass AR-11 logos available. I’ll put them in the For Sale section.
  20. Yes. I had dropped them off at my tech's because he was also working on their McIntosh pre & amp. Shortly afterward I received a nice email: "Thank you. They are wired up and sound really nice. And look good. Maybe part of it is a rare feeling of cheating time. We bought them from my wife's boss the day before our daughter was born. She is now 35." Nice note. Made it worthwhile.
  21. JKent

    Thanks to admin'.

    What he said. Thanks!
  22. Hi Norman Apparently my earlier post may not have been accurate. If you look at Service Bulletin 59 in our Library here: http://www.classicspeakerpages.net/library/klh/other/klh_schematicsservice/klh_service_bulletin_59.pdf you will see KLH made two similar 2" tweeters; One they just called a 2" and the othe a Model 12 2". They were characterized by different thickness of the top plate used to secure the magnet and "some" Model 12s were marked M12. There is discussion of this in this thread: https://www.audiokarma.org/forums/index.php?threads/klh-tweeter-id-and-repair.492609/ The Model 12 tweeter was used in the Five, Twelve and Twenty-Three while the other was used in the Six, Seventeen, Twenty, Thirty and Thirty-Three. Two thoughts on this: Color (black or silver) makes no difference. Other than physical appearance, there may be no difference between the M12 and the 2" tweeter but I'm not certain about that. It may be best to have 2 matching tweeters regardless of the model number. Hope that helps. Your 3-channel system sounds cool! Kent
  23. Thanks Chris. Here they are. Grille cloth is a bit lighter than original. I added Velcro strips for easy grille removal.
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