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  1. Yesterday
  2. Hi All, I’ve been a KLH-1 owner in the UK for many years… the 1980’s ones with the Analogue Bass Computer. I’m on the lookout for a pair of tweeters and 1 mid-range driver. It looks like the KLH-2, 3 and 4 share the tweeters, and the KLH2 share the mid. but I know looks can be deceiving. It looks like these drivers don’t come up very often, especially in the UK. Would anyone know of any please? Failing that would there be any suitable modern equivalent replacement tweeters? I can't see there being anything suitable for the mid-range driver. Many Thanks, Lewis.
  3. So then, found these in a junk shop for €25. A bit dusty, and a few scratches on the wood venneer, but will clean up nicely. Nothing on the web, save a few picys. SEAS throughout, and in "brand new" condition. And what's "uni-phase"? Nice graph? Tried to get in, but all three drivers are stuck fast, or have been glued in! Would love to re-cap them, as they sound good as they are. Really good! 15kg each, real wood venneer, 25mm LDF cabinets. BUT the thing that sold me, was that all three drivers are angled downwards? On the ledges that they sit above, strips of woollen fabric have been added. Nice touch. Probably the best built cabinets I've come across. If anyone has any tips on getting one of the drivers out, then please tell. Even a small screwdriver just digs into the front baffle when I try to lever it out.
  4. Really..a new one can be used with these speakers? I didn’t think that an option. I appreciate all your suggestions...thank you!
  5. If vintage is what you require the Pioneer 850 or 780 would be good but an old 850 that you could trust with your speakers would cost about as much as a new Cambridge AXR 85 which has everything you need + a warranty and also got a great writeup on this site about a year ago, though I can't remember the member's name right now. User "Der" gave the Yamaha 701 integrated amp good marks, the Yamaha 501 which is similar but lower cost seems to have what you need if you don't require an FM section. Adams
  6. Last week
  7. I am frustrated in trying to replace a receiver for my original AR3a speaker pair. I made a stupid mistake when my original receiver died..I forget which it was..1969. I remembered a number of receivers from that time period & bought a Kenwood that ‘worked’ not realizing it needs to be refurbished whatever I buy. This was 2013...died 2019. I did folk singing + guitar & into those vinyls. I have a Miracord phono. The sound from these speakers has been a delight for this music. I have never needed any service on the speakers. The receivers that have been suggested are Marantz 2230 only 30 watts. Original booklet said only 25 watts needed, but at 4 ohms I can get 45 watts out of a Marantz 2240B. Then there is Pioneer SX780 also 45 watts then someone saidPioneer 850 at 65 watts worked well with these speakers..Yamaha CR-620 might be good. I am a senior..HELP! Anita
  8. The Peerless super tweeters are not that hard to find; they were used in a lot of different '70s speaker systems. Many of them are discarded because they are very difficult to remove without bending the metal frames and destroying them. Don't ask me how I know. Finding a similar, modern replacement tweeter should also be relatively easy. The dark-colored Rectilinear fabrics are difficult to match, but you can come pretty close at a good fabric store.
  9. Any 10" acoustic suspension woofer should do. The speaker only uses the woofer for 100hz and below, so it doesn't add much flavor to the characteristic sound. I needed a new woofer for one of my Xa's some years ago (although it probably only needed a new paper cone -- I don't remember now) and a KLH woofer matched very well. Sounds just like the original in the other speaker. I think Rectilinear used Jensen components, and that is or was a large company. There's also looking on the used market for brand X acoustic suspension speakers with 10" woofers. Or the Acoustic Research 2x and 2ax used 10". Ebay or Craigslist should have some of those. It's a good speaker so you may not want to cannibalize them, but the Rectilinear IMO is better. HTH, John
  10. Joe, The summary Kent provided is right on target. I can verify from recent, personal experience, having just restored the pots in my 3a's in just a few hours at zero cost by cleaning them. At the same time, I also replaced the caps for just a few dollars using inexpensive caps from PE & Erse. The day after I finished, a friend came by, heard them & even though they are not for sale, offered $1500, which I politely declined. They are too good to sell. The quality of guidance available here to help you do the job yourself is unparalleled. Take up the offer if you can.
  11. Well, we're here to help and encourage. Since you are rebuilding the entire xo yes, it may be easier to work outside the cabinet. I can't find an AR-3a Improved crossover schematic but your speakers "may" have the needed resistors. In the AR-3a that resistor was a piece of nichrome wire. When I built an AR-3a crossover from scratch I used two 1-ohm 10w resistors in parallel. This yields a 0.5 Ohm 20w resistor, which should be fine. The 1st pic below shows an exceedingly neatly laid out crossover by CSP member xmas111. Notice the silver wire between the 2 coils on the bottom left part of the board. That's nichrome. The second, considerably less neat xo is mine. You can see the two 1 Ohm resistors in the middle of the board. Kent
  12. A lot of great information in these posts!! I bought a set of Xa's back in 1972 along with a Harmon Kardon 930 and Garrard zero-100 turntable. It was my first "real" system. Later added a set of III's. Both sets have gone through a lot since then (moving half way across the country included). The woofers are shot in the Xa's and have been searching for replacements. I tried a set of replacements but they just weren't the same. I threw out the old ones and now wish I hadn't because I think I found a guy that rebuilds speakers and "maybe" could have revived them. Oh well... I just can't part with them. The III's have "survived" much abuse and are still going strong except one does have a bad super tweeter and I'm going to try the "rebuild guy" if I can't find a replacement. From what you guys have been saying it looks like its really hard if not impossible to find replacement parts. I guess at least looking for other sets as you have done may give me enough parts to work with. A little off topic, but I have also been trying to find speaker cloth to replace and give a face lift to mine. I was hoping to find someone that sells at least something close to the original but so far no luck. Some are close, but if I can I want to keep as close to original as possible. Any pointers/comments to any of this would be much appreciated.
  13. Thanks Kent! No offence taken. I'm not sure yet, which is why I want to understand as much as possible about what's involved. But I do enjoy a challenge and I like learning new skills. I've spent a lot of time reading on the forum and I get the impression this would be the best way to give these speakers a new lease of life. Also, I'd like to replace the binding posts and the capacitors at some point and, please correct me if I'm wrong, but I got the impression it might actually be easier to build a new crossover than doing that with the existing one in place. BTW, thanks for all your advice on the forum about cabinet repair (and Glen's), which has given me the confidence to tackle some nasty water damage where a few of the panels have separated at the joints. I've restored a few pieces of furniture before but this was by far the most ambitious repair I've taken on. I finished the first cabinet this afternoon and it has come out very nicely! One more question. There is a 0.51 Ohm/22W resistor in the limited crossover. So far, I've only found a 10W one. Would that be an acceptable substitute or do I need to find another option with a higher power rating? Ben
  14. Use a block of wood and a hammer. Make new out of Masonite if necessary but I'd re-use the old. You can plug the switch hole and drill new holes for the L-pads. Re-use coils. Replace caps. For 150uF use NPE, they're cheap. 15w 100v minimum but anything over that is fine If you need new coils use 18ga. I believe the originals are 17ga. Re-use any originals you can. No offense intended but this is an ambitious project and you are a novice. You sure you want to do this? Kent
  15. Thanks Roy! Here's a picture of the back of the speakers. I think the aperture for the terminals/switch is the same size as on the AR-3a. In fact, I think you implied in another thread that the 'Improved' may actually have been a marketing ploy to get rid of the remaining stock of European style cabinets. I'm in no rush with this. Electronics is completely new to me and I've still got some work to do on the cabinets before I'll be ready to get stuck into the crossovers. I do have a few more questions: 1. Replacing the whole board where the binding posts are sounds sensible. How would I go about getting the old board out and what material should I use for the replacement? 2. Is it worth reusing any of the components from the old crossover or would it be better to scrap them and use new components? Some of the coils/capacitors have the same values and the 150uf caps I've found so far seem quite expensive. I'm not averse to spending the money if its going to make a difference to longevity or sound but I don't want to replace them if there's no good reason. 3. I think I read in another thread that the L-pads should be 15W. Is that right? 4. The capacitors in the schematic are all labelled as 100V but the ones I've found online so far are all rated higher. Do they have to be 100V exactly or is this a minimum? 5. There are no Ohm ratings or wire guage listed for the inductors on the diagram but these are seem to be specified on all the coils I've looked at online. Which ones should I be looking for, or doesn't it matter? Sorry for the long list of newbie questions. Thanks again! Ben
  16. 200043-0, aka 1200043-0, is the AR service replacement tweeter for the 58s, circa 1985-86 The second driver's P/N is an AR sequence, but later than either original AR or Teledyne. The third driver is most likely an off-brand replacement.
  17. Left to right, pics 1 & 2 from 58s so far as I know the original P/N is 100051 this has P/N 200043-0. Pis 3,4,5 all same driver measures around 5". This is supposed to be a 20001-1 or -0 8" if it really is a 20001 it's what belongs in my 17s I don't think it's an authentic AR.
  18. Aadams

    AR 5

    Early 1970s. If you have serial numbers you can get more precise. If you look on the driver magnets you may see date stamps. If you remove the tweeters be very careful with the plastic flanges and lead wires. Same for mids. Recommend you not remove the mids unless you absolutely must, they are not repairable and replacements are rare but they are durable and do not seem to degrade with time. Adams
  19. dna

    AR 5

    Thanks for the valuable info! Would they be of recent or current vintage?
  20. The woofer had the square magnet. The tweeter is dated the 49th week of 73. Here's the crossover. Look familiar to anyone? I wasn't expecting to see that silver cap in there. It's usually the blue sprague or wax cap right?
  21. Aadams

    AR 5

    Those are Sprague Compulytic Caps. PM @RoyC or @Chris1this1 for Tweeter repair. If you desire originality tweeter repair is the way to go. You might be satisfied with the HiVi Q1R tweeter mod which is less expensive if you DIY. Download and read the AR3a Restoration Guide, you will find the AR5 is much like the 3a in layout. It is also practically identical in sound quality. Adams
  22. I too am curious as to what's inside. I'm about to pull the woofer and find out. Pics to come.
  23. I believe the cabinets to be wood veneer.. I'm not a wood expert or anything but I've seen wood grained vinyl speakers before and these don't appear to be that. If they are it sure fooled me. Here's some better pics. That big scratch on the bottom looks like a real wood scratch to me. The corner there where there's a little separation looks like it's kinda splintered like wood at the top too.
  24. dna

    AR 5

    Where could I get the tweeters repaired if needs be? The owner indicated they were overhauled at some shop in Seattle 6 years ago. The foams look pretty good, too good not to be of recent vintage.... My getaway is 12' X 16' with 8' walls and a 4' peak, I have a Pioneer SX 780 tuner and the AR 5, 58, and 17s towered with a pair of Pioneer S? 100 that I'm not (they need re-capped) using right now. It makes for a pretty good listening room....:) I saw 2 blue and 1 orange cap, that orange on sure is large. The leads from them are so short I can't rotate them to see the brand or rating.
  25. Here's some better pics of the break in the tinsel wire. I tried bridging the break again as it was hooked up with a small length of wire and never got any sound. I think it may be dead. Out of my league to repair at the least I believe.
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